The Ssese Islands archipelago is a large chain of islands in the north of Lake Victoria/Nalubaale, in Ugandan waters. While fishing communities have long been known to be at an increased risk of HIV/AIDS transmission as a result of their precarious work and the amplified risk-taking often associated with it, the challenge for a long time was that it was very hard to effectively deliver ARVs to remote communities and even harder to do so reliably. With the launch of a new test and treat project, which not only achieved the milestone of prescribing all new HIV diagnoses with ARVs immediately (instead of the old standard, which was to wait for white blood cell counts to drop first), but also factored in reliable delivery of drugs to remote islands by boat. Andrew Green and I travelled to some of the communities which these deliveries served, to get a picture of what life looks like in these hard-to-reach places.